Learning to work at the material’s pace
Helena Manner joined CHEMARTS Summer School in 2016, bringing a background in glass and ceramics from the Estonian Academy of Arts.
Designer Helena Manner
What drew her in was the opportunity to explore materials not just as physical substances but as something that carries memory, time and cultural values.
“For me, sustainability is not only about materials, but about the systems, values, and continuity. A sustainable material future feels calm, thoughtful and long-term, where resources are respected and design prioritises durability and emotional connection over novelty. To me, sustainability is deeply tied to how we choose to live, consume and value things over time. ”
Process of forming bacterial cellulose on a mannequin.
Colored bacterial cellulose.
“Later, I also explored how methods from glass could be translated into cellulose-based materials through the use of plaster moulds and surface experiments. This shift from controlling a material to collaborating with it became a central part of my practice.”
“I also experimented with colour, using synthetic dyes at the time, while considering how natural dye processes could be integrated in the future. This process changed the way I understand form-making: from something that is directed, to something that emerges.”
Plaster mould experiment with cellulose.
Helena describes CHEMARTS as a space that encourages curiosity and patience, values that continue to inform both her making and her thinking.
“The studio environment offered time to explore materials slowly and thoughtfully, allowing the process itself to guide the work.”
Building a career shaped by materials and meaning
Helena has since completed a Master of Arts in Material Futures at Central Saint Martins, and the Growth Areas in Fashion and Textile Sector programme at Tampere University of Applied Sciences. Understanding materials within ecological and cultural systems has transformed her process.
“CHEMARTS shaped how I think about materials and responsibility. It helped me to connect conceptual thinking with hands-on experimentation. This mindset proved valuable in projects for brands like Stella McCartney during my studies in London.”
Helena aims to work at the intersection of design, sustainability and material innovation, in Finland or internationally.
“I aim to work in fashion, product development, material innovation or future-oriented design research. I want to contribute to a design industry that is grounded and responsible, where materials and values are approached with depth and long-term perspective.”
Interested in studying CHEMARTS courses? Apply to Aalto University.